It's the post we've all been waiting for! Well, all of us, minus Riley, who still really wants a giraffe jumper. We'll see...
Since this is a jumper, let's (ahem) jump right in.
Approximately 1 yard main fabric
Approximately 1 yard underskirt/lining fabric
Scrap fabric for eyes, beak and pocket (if you want it)
2 snaps or buttons
Steam a Seam
Pattern pieces, found here and here
Basic sewing gear
My measurements will be for a 3T/4T jumper. Riley is fairly average height but is a twig. My waist ends up being 22 inches with a length of 24 inches, from shoulder to hem. The great thing about this pattern, though, is that it's ridiculously easy to modify. The only thing to change is the size of your back strip of fabric that makes up the back of the bodice (just a rectangle!) and the length of the straps and skirt. So simple.
Cut out your pieces for the bodice (one front, one back, two "ear-things" and two straps (2 inches by 20 inches).
Also cut out the eyes and beaks to applique. I used a spool of thread and a plastic cup (with about a 3-inch diameter). And I just freehanded the beak. BUT WAIT! Before you cut, here's my tip for Steam a Seam and applique: First trace your shape onto the fabric.
Then cut around the shape but leave room. Keeping the backing on the Steam a Seam, place the fabric on the "sticky" side. Look closely at the picture below to see my circles.
Cut the Steam a Seam so that there's none sticking out from the edges. You do not want that stuff on your iron. Blech.
Iron the fabric to the Steam a Seam. It won't adhere to your board because you still have the paper backing on it.
Just peel the backing off and place it where you want it.
Next, zig-zag stitch around your eyes and beak for added security and a nice, finished look.
Now grab your straps. Fold them over and stitch just the long sides, using a 3/8 inch seam allowance (the edge of your presser foot).
Trim the edge that's folded over, so when you turn it right side out, it will be less bulky.
Turn right side out and press.
Now begins the assembly, which is the trickiest part... and it's not all that tricky. Yay!
Place the straps in the middle of each of the extended portions of the back bodice, like so.
Then cover them with the "ears" or "horns." (That's right... I googled it. They're referred to in both ways.)
Notice how the one on the right doesn't line up as nicely? Oops. But if this happens to you, don't worry. It doesn't matter. It just needs to be good enough. Let's clamp down on our Type A personalities and embrace that imperfection. :)
Clip the edges of the seam.
Then press both the strap and seam down toward the bottom, keeping the owl horn up.
Now place the front bodice on top, right sides together. Put it aside for just a brief moment while we get the back of the bodice ready.
The back is just a strip of fabric, 8 inches by 14.5 inches (for me), folded and pressed to be 4 inches by 14.5 inches. Then top stitch close to the fold.
You're going to sandwich the back in between the two bodice pieces. You'll have to fold it up a little to make it fit.
Stitch it all up, using a 3/8 inch seam allowance! **When you get to the sides of the horns, make sure that you're not stitching over the straps, too. You want them to fold up nicely.**
Clip the top of the horn. Then turn and press.
Oh my word, you say to yourself! Look at that! My daughter is going to rock this owl! Then you top stitch around that cute owly face.
Bodice DONE! And it's the toughest part; trust me.
Moving on to the skirt. If you're adding a pocket, make that now. Take your pocket pattern piece. Finish the sides and bottom with a zig-zag stitch or serger.
Then fold those edges to the wrong side and press. The corners take a little finagling, but you can do it.
I didn't take a picture, but fold the top 1/4-inch to the wrong side, then another 1/4-inch. Press and stitch.
Sew your underskirt piece, right sides together, along the short ends, creating a big ol' loop. Zig-zag or serge.
Hem it by pressing over a 1/4 inch then another 1/4 inch. Stitch. Turn right side out.
Find the front center of the underskirt and position your pocket, about 3 inches from the hem. Pin pocket in place.
Stitch around the sides and bottom. Easy as pie.
I didn't create a pattern piece for this, but grab your four 8" x 16" pieces, two main pieces and two lining. Place the main and lining pieces, right sides together, and draw a curve like this. Then cut.
Sew pieces together, ONLY along the curve.
Now you're going to line up the curve with the rectangle part of the overskirt. Line up at the top.
You'll see that the rectangle is longer than the curved wing part. **Note: After I made mine, I adjusted the pattern, so there's more discrepancy. You'll have about 1/2-inch difference.**
Pin wings to rectangle, right sides together.
Stitch up the sides and finish with a zig-zag stitch or serged edge.
Now, take that leftover part along the bottom and fold it over. You'll be folding it over twice (remember my change?). Press.
Now top stitch the whole thing, sides and bottom.
Center underskirt on the overskirt, right side to wrong side. Pin overskirt around the underskirt.
Stitch skirts together with a gathering stitch. Then gather them in until they are the same measurement as your bodice piece.
Flip bodice piece inside-out and center it. Pin and stitch.
Finish with a zig-zag or serge and now it's time for the BIG REVEAL!!!
Gasp! It looks great... but now you just have to do the snaps. Sorry. No pics. Basically, you apply the snaps like the manufacturer says. They'll come in toward the center a little. You could also do buttons, if you'd prefer.
But wait! It's even better on a kid! (Of course it is.) And that pocket is super fun. I had to keep pulling toys out of it while snapping pictures. :)
Versions 1 and 2. Same bodice, different skirt. I'll post a quick tutorial on version 1.0 soon. It's much simpler, if you're looking for that.
Please let me know if any step is unclear! I'm just starting in the tutorial biz. :)